France, Cotes d’Or, Nuits-St Georges
Bertrand & Denis Chevillon
This is a 13ha Domaine of ultra high quality. At the core of the domaine are some impressive vineyard sites and enviable old vines. The quality is preserved by ‘less than greedy yields’ and con dent winemaking eschewing fads that the family has dis- respect for. All of the wines demonstrate harmony, ripe fruit and structure thanks to both hard work in the vineyard by Denis (who insists on low yields and a strict grape selection) and to a fermentation and barrique elevage carefully controlled by Bertrand. In fact, it is a great compliment to them both that their wines are so balanced yet still maintain the individuality and character that emanates from their respective terroirs. The vineyards south of Nuits (such as Pruliers and Vaucrains) tend to have more mus- cle and drive while those nearer Vosne, such as the Chaignots and Bousselots, offer more on elegance and silkiness. This is one of the very best and most pleasure-giving domaines of Burgundy and one of the most reliable too. Many writers and commentators state that Chevillon is the best or equal best domaine in Nuits St. Georges. The style is perfumed, juicy, bal- anced, concentrated and rich. The Chevillon brothers are two of the most hard working vignerons we know of in all of Bur- gundy, and this combined with skill and passion, plus a quiver full of mature and old vines [many in excess of 80yo] provides us with more than ample reasons to buy these wines year in- year out.
The wines of Robert Chevillon are very scarce and in high demand. They are offered on an allocation basis. Please contact us to register your interest.
“There is no bigger name in the village than that of Robert Chevillon, who is nearly universally recognised as the finest producer in Nuits St. Georges today.”
“The young 2013s were just starting to open in late fall, said Bertrand Chevillon, who racked the wines in July following the end of the malolactic fermentations. Even so, a number of these wines were still youthfully clenched at the time of my visit and in need of more élevage; there’s every reason to believe that the ’13s will evolve slowly. The Chevillons made a few more barrels overall than in 2012 but it was not a big crop, according to Bertrand. The grapes remained healthy until the end of the harvest and then degraded quickly, he told me. Most of the triage was done in the vines but the estate has had a vibrating sorting table for the past two years.”
2013 Bourgogne Rouge
This is really quite pretty with its airy nose of both red and dark berries, earth and subtle underbrush hints that are more elegant than the components sound. There is an attractive vibrancy and volume to the rich and delicious flavors that possess fine depth and even better length in a package that should drink well immediately.
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Vieilles Vignes”
Here the expressive nose is more deeply pitched with more earth and humus character adding depth to the very fresh nose of dark currant aromas. There is good verve and delineation to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a seductive mouth feel thanks to the velvety and persistent finish. Lovely stuff that will be approachable young if desired.
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Aux Bousselots”
This displays enough wood to mention but not so much as to fight with the more elegant if less spicy dark berry fruit, earth and vaguely gamy aromas. This is notably rich with fine volume on the medium-bodied flavors that exude an appealing minerality that adds to the sense of vibrancy, particularly on the linear and well-balanced finale. This will need a few years of bottle age as it’s presently quite compact though not hard or austere.
92 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Roncières”
A softly spicy nose offers up notes of plum, black currant and discreet warm earth hints. Like the Chaignots the medium weight flavors are juicy and succulent with plenty of volume and mid-palate density before terminating in a palate coating finish that is balanced and sweet in the best sense of the term.
92 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Chaignots”
A subtle touch of wood sets off spicy aromas of plum, earth and mostly red berry fruit scents. There is a succulent quality to the vibrant and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that are relatively fine before culminating in a balanced and lingering finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces.
91 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Perrières”
A relatively high-toned, elegant and cool nose features notes of red berry fruit aromas that include cherry, raspberry and pomegranate along with hints of spice and sandalwood. The impression of elegance is reinforced by the refined middle weight flavors thanks to the sleek tannins and abundant minerality that continues onto the vibrant and ever-so-slightly austere finish. This is textbook Perrières, which is to say an understated and harmonious wine built on its minerality.
92 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Pruliers”
This is completely different from the Perrières from nose to tail as it were. The aromas are much more deeply pitched with game and earth characters combining with subtly spicy aromas of various dark berries. There is excellent richness, size, weight, muscle and power to the big-bodied flavors that conclude in a focused finish that is moderately rustic and slightly austere. This should be excellent in time though note that patience will definitely be required.
93 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Cailles”
A subtle if not invisible application of wood sets off the spicy, elegant and ultra-pure nose of layered red currant, cherry, violet and warm earth aromas. The delicious, concentrated and sleekly muscular flavors possess outstanding mid-palate concentration before terminating in a balanced and strikingly long finish. The old vine sap is very much in evidence as it pushes the otherwise firm tannins to the background and imparts a velvety feel. This should be terrific in time.
94 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les Vaucrains”
Here too there is enough wood to notice on the notably ripe and fresh aromas of black cherry, plum, pungent earth and abundant sauvage scents. The big, rich and full-bodied flavors possess an overt muscularity along with plenty of power on the extract-rich, intense and very firmly structured finale. As it always is this is rustic and austere and will need a minimum of 10 years to arrive at its peak but 15 will be better. The domaine almost never misses with this wine and the 2013 is potentially great.
95 pts burghound.com
2013 Nuits St. Georges “Les St.-Georges”
The wood is somewhat more in evidence though again it’s not so much as to really compete with the plum, black cherry, dark currant and pungent earth-suffused aromas. This also possesses genuinely excellent volume and power as the broad-shouldered flavors possess both fine richness and seriously good mid-palate density on the mineral-inflected and palate coating finish. This has just a bit more acidity than the Les Cailles and it adds to the sense of vibrancy.
94 pts burghound.com